What do they really mean? For a second one can disappear, being away and out of touch from the reality. To me it is not even about the waves, it is not about the swells and it is not about the surfing. Sure they play a big role in the trips but personally it is about the moments of the trip. It is the time one spends away, the phase that one spends with friends, the memories that are made and the epic adventure that is had. It is about those times that you can look back on; and be able to be happy, content and blissful. It is an escape from the day-to-day hustle that one is involved in. some of my fondest holiday memories have been spending time up the West Coast, not always scoring waves but always scoring the best times. I wish I could pack up my bags and head. I miss that place and I long to return! This photo is of the beast we took on a trip in 2010, not the best waves, not the best weather but some of the best memories.
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